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VegasEats: Tom Colicchio's Heritage Steak at The Mirage

By Blackjacker1979 on Monday, 25th November 2013 1:07pm
  » filed under Las Vegas  comments: 11


Steakhouses, more than gambling, drinking, and general debauchery, are my Vegas kryptonite. To me there is no other way to start night at the tables than a Caesar salad, a glass of wine or four, and a hand butchered cut of grilled and rested prime beef.

I've been fortunate enough to eat my way across some of the finest in the city, from Jean George's offerings at Aria and Bellagio to Stephen A. Wynn's namesake SW Steakhouse. One place however that I never landed at was the oft-lauded Craftsteak from acclaimed chef and Tom Colicchio due to my hatred of traversing MGM Grand's inner bowels for any reason, regardless of glowing reviews from friends and colleagues.

When I found out that Chef Colicchio would be opening a new restaurant in the atrium at the Mirage, I was torn. I was thrilled that a favorite resort of mine would be getting a true steak joint NOT a beef and burger disco like Light Group's Stack, but concerned that one of the last, great pristine elements of Mirage would be decimated as a result.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

Heritage is located at the north casino-side corner of the walkway across the atrium, and spreads back through a bar and into a dining room and open kitchen through the prior Kokomos space. The decor by Bentel+Bentel is woodsy and modern, with an open beam trellis ceiling and walls lined with meticulously cut firewood. The latter is a metaphor for the restaurant itself, where the idea is that everything is prepared by open-flame grilling techniques from robatayaki to wood and charcoal firing. The dining room is small and intimate with low long leather-lined banquettes and few flourishes, with an open air kitchen that provides an element of interactivity and the ever present sound of the atrium waterfalls meshing with the soft music played throughout the space.

Our quartet parsed the menu and decided to dive right in only taking time for me to order a completely passable Tom Collins. In passing we were brought bread, fresh from Crafsteak a week ago and then trucked to the Mirage by way of Utah. I hope they fix this.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

The first dish to arrive was an appetizer, wood-roasted peaches with Iberico ham, green onion, and arugula. Alone each item was amazing, the peaches having a fantastic caramelization from the grill, the ham providing a subtle saltiness and the lightly oiled arugula salad just the right level of bitterness. Paired together, it tingled every corner of my palate without being overbearing. A perfect starter.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

Beef (above) and duck skewers

The rest of the table decided to order some skewers from the robata. The consensus after some input from our expertly trained waitress was an order of skirt steak and an order of duck Soy-Chili Glazed Skewers with Black Garlic, Watercress, Cilantro and Basil. Although I only partook of a bit of the steak skewer, it was cooked perfectly with a lovely sear and pink center, and according to my companions the duck was done in just the same way, not overcooking to the point of being gamey. The accompanying greens were perfect to offset the flavors of each dish. The appetizers were perfect, leaving us satisfied but ready for the main courses.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

For the entrees, we split it down the middle. Two went with the NY Strip Steak with Pepper Chutney Bordelaise, Sauteed Arugula, and New Potatoes. According to those who had it, the steak was perfectly cooked to medium rare, and was tender and delicious as any they had ever had with a wonderful pan sauce. While they loved the accompaniments as well, the one standout seemed to be the New Potatoes which are prepared by some combination of smashing, seasoning and possibly frying.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

What I can speak for however is 10oz Natural Prime Filet accompanied with New Potatoes. The potatoes were perfectly cooked and seasoned, but the steak was the real star. The filet was seasoned lightly and seared to a perfect medium.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

The steak itself, which is from a heritage line and antibiotic-free, featured perfect marbling and a delicious buttery flavor. Like everyone had told me about Craftsteak and its steaks, Heritage wows with simplicity of ingredients, allowing subtle flavors to shine unburdeoned by excessive preparation.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

In addition to the entrees the table split several sides. The first is the Creamless Creamed Corn, which is exactly what it says using no heavy cream to make the final product. Surprisingly the result is no different than you'd find with an expertly prepared creamed corn, and the flavor was salty-sweet and delicious.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

We also procured an order of the Spicy Onion Rings, which are prepared in a spiced tempura batter. They were crispy and not at all oily, and delivered with a somewhat forgettable sauce. We chose to enjoy them dipped in an extra order of the house-prepared steak sauce.

Mirage Heritage Steak Review Tom Colicchio

For dessert I opted for a Chocolate Tort which proved to be little more than a dry brownie topped with a spoonful of vanilla ice cream. Along with the bread basket, it was the low point of an otherwise fantastic meal. Final damage for our party of four was a tad over $300.

With Colicchio's perfected preparation techniques, a subtle comfortable dining room, and prices in line with other high end offerings on property, it gives a better alternative to the generic preparations and overbearing atmosphere of Stack. And that's maybe what's best about Heritage Steak. It just fits into the Mirage without being outlandish. And that's a good thing for a change.

Tagged: vegas eats   tom colicchio   heritage steak   mirage   dining   reviews   


Comments & Discussion:

Something to note is that the menu does change on a semi-regular basis, as when I ate there with Donnymac and Spyder the Thursday before VIMFP, the grilled peaches and Iberico ham appetizer as well as the duck skewers appetizer were not on the menu, nor was the creamless cream corn. But for the most part, it appears that most of the menu is more static. Now the night we ate there, the bartender (we ate at the bar) talked us into splitting the bacon fritter for dessert. Bacon fritters with chocolate ice cream, marshmallow cream and (IIRC) caramel sauce. It was the perfect way to end what was the best meal I have ever had, not just in Vegas, but ever. I even think that Heritage Steak was better than Gordon Ramsey Steak, and that's a pretty bold statement considering GRS is damn good.

We ate at the bar, great service and cocktails and a cool vibe being right by the casino but not hearing any of it. When I wandered in towards the little boys room the resturant nerd in me got lost staring at the kitchen. Chatted with one of the cooks for a minute and he was showing off their incredible grill.

On a side note the food was really good too, and I felt reasonably priced. For a Tom ChooChooaLoo joint

I have been really excited about this place opening. Mirage is my favorite place in town, but I havent been thrilled with the food offerings latley. My next Vegas trip wont be until the summer, but i'm really looking forward to checking this place out.

I stayed at Mirage and ate at Heritage the night before VIMFP - was really impressed with the strip steak and it's presentation. I'm going back for the Rodeo (scene) and was going to repeat the stripsteak, but I think I'm going to try the filet after reading this. Nice hunger-causing photography, by the way!

I had the pork belly and fried oyster appetizer and short rib entree. the whole experience was awesome. Might return at Christmas

300 for 4 is surprisingly good by Vegas standards. Nice

Great photos.

Great review and photos! For $300, I'm guessing you did not order any wine.

^ No wine, but that did include one Tom's Collins (their take on the traditional Collins) and a Patron reserve dessert shot as well as one beer for another member of the party.

We were $300 for the 3 of us 3 apps, 3 entrees, a couple sides, 1 bacon beniegt dessert and a few cocktails and craft brews

I never eat steak when I'm in Vegas (since I can get a pretty good steak here in Dallas) but those pictures and review have me hankerin' to eat one there!

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